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The science of preparation of wood for first and re coating

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PREPARATION
Ths is the key to any painting job. Get it right and success will be guaranteed especially when finishing with a reputable brand paint. Here we look at what it takes to get the best results when painting timber. There are two main classifications of timber, softwoods and hardwoods. Softwoods come from coniferous trees which are cone bearing and hardwoods from deciduous trees, which are broad leafed and have a seeds such as acorns. Softwoods are not durable when used externally, unless protected by a suitable wood preservative, followed by a paint, wood stain or varnish system. Hardwoods are more durable generally and do not require preservative treatment. However, oily types do require pre-treatment with solvent to remove oily residues.
For information on exterior board finishing click here

BASICS
Make sure all surfaces are sound. clean and tree from anything that will interfere with the adhesion of the material to be applied. Before painting check the moisture content s below 18%. Rub down new timber with fine abrasive paper to obtain a smooth finish Lightly round off sharp edges to a 3 mm radius and dust off. Remove a1! areas of defective paint coatings back to bare wood by scraping, stripping with hot air gun, or by using a proprietary paint remover. Rub down exposed timber with abrasive paper to obtain a smooth finish. Feather off the edges and dust off.

KNOTS
Remove excess resin from any live knots with a hot air paint stripper. Wipe immediately with methylated spirit to remove residue. Apply two coats of fresh shellac
knotting to ail exposed knots and resinous areas. Of timber. To all non-durable non-preservative treated bare softwood timber, brush apply proprietary timber preservative to all exposed surfaces and end grains, taking care to follow the manufacturer's instructions Allow the solvent to dry thoroughly before overcoating. Scrub and swab oily hardwood surfaces with white spirit, frequently changing the face of cloths. Allow the solvent to evaporate before priming.

PUTTY / PRIMERS
Rake out any defective puffy fillets and cut out all rotted timber. Replace rotted timber with new, sound timber' pre treated with a suitable timber preservative. Prime a11 bare timber, including exposed putty rebates, with the appropriate primer. In the Albany range from Britpaints you can choose from wood primer, aluminium wood primer all purpose primer or acrylic primer undercoat it quick drying water based system is required. Wash a11 remaining areas of sound pant work with a mild detergent solution to remove dirt or grease deposits. Wet abrade surfaces with waterproof abrasive paper to form a key. Rinse thoroughly with clean water to remove all residues and allow to dry. Ensure all pin, nail! and screw heads are sunk well below the surface and make good all surface imperfections with a suitable wood filler Allow the filler to dry. rub down smooth and level! to existing surface. Dust off Remake putty fillets with linseed oil or acrylic putty - depending on your finishing system (solvent or water based) and allow putty to form a hard skin before painting

GOOD PAINTING PRACTICE
Prime before exposure or as soon as possible thereafter. Double check all vulnerable areas of old pant for adhesion, i.e. lower rails, cills, etc. and completely remove the coatings from these sections if the condition is poor. Wet abrade where possible - it is more effective and prevents the creation of dry dust particles. Use good quality exterior fillers outside. Avoid painting in temperatures below the recommended minimum's for the system you are using (water or solvent) or when rain is expected during application or drying periods. For best results, with solvent based finish allow overnight drying between coats. Lightly denib and dust off before overcoating. Sometimes an extra coat of undercoat may pay dividends particularly on new work to help fill the surface or on repaints where a significant change of colour is involved. It's as well to remember that some strong finishing colours may require an extra coat to obtain the optimum level of opacity. As far as exterior priming goes it s always beneficial to apply an extra coat to end grains, wet on wet Usually an extra coat of gloss is also recommended outside especially on weathered or exposed elevations.

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